Up at the crack of dawn to experience the stunning Lake Manyara sunrise over the mountains. It was well worth it, and besides our guide told us we were hitting the road at 8AM anyway. Gina didn't sleep well. Like a child waiting for Santa she was excited at what the next day held, along with how amazed she was at our good furtune to date.
Dinner and breakfast at the lodge were as exceptional as our surroundings, as has been the service. That said, the tipping culture here is rife, I guess the staff are not well paid. I still hate tipping!
So this morning we set off for the Ngorongoro Conservation Area, which we will travel through onto our way to the Serengeti this afternoon. Again this was stunning and the first part of our Big 5 experience. we learned a bit of history as well. There was conflict between the Massai and Government in the late 1950's. Still under colonial rule, a British delegation was sent to Tanzania to facilitate. The Massai were to be moved from the Serengeti as part of the preservation of wildlife. The Massai protested. A border was created forming the Ngorongoro Conservation Area and separating it from the Serengeti. The Massai resettled, have the run of the area, and happy days.
A little factoid here, Tanzania's population is 55 Million people, 66% of which own a cellphone! Now why do I digress? As you pass through Massai villages, the people in the blue and red robes holding a spear or a small Massai child, your brain struggles with the fact that many are also on a mobile phone!
We stopped at a Massai village for a cultural experience. Hussan told us not to give them money as they are well paid by the Safari operators, also not to buy the handicrafts as they are extremely pricey. Noted. I was greeted by Mathius, the Chief's son. He spoke english very well and along with the traditional garb, he sported a bright green G-Shock style watch! Even the Massai have to tell the time.
He asked me how many wives I had, I answered one. He is 27, has 4 wives and 11 children! I said I have been married to the one woman for 30 years, he looked at me like I was some kind of freak! "How many cattle do you have?", "none, we are city people". I'm not sure if he was digusted or sad for me. After the mandatory tour of the village and school, of which we donated some money to, I know, we did a bit of cultural exchange. Gina asked how the wannabe Chief managed his wives. He said they don't talk to him if he so\pends more than a night with a single wife. Gina told him this is the "silent treatment". He loved it, and rehearsed it over and over. He was aiming for 12 wives, one more than his father, why oh why!
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| How many wives mate?? |
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| Lounging Lioness-we were very close |
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| Massai child |
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| Straight from a World Vision brochure |
In our travels through the conservation area and into the Serengeti, we saw herds of migrating Wilderbeast, Gazelles, Antelope, Waterhogs, Hyenas, pink flamingos, Hippo's and Lions. This was just awe inspiring. We are drivng through the Serengeti, not a zoo, quite surreal.
The lions were lounging, one on a rock by the road, the rest of the pride under a tree close by. We parked next to them they were that close! The spotter got up, on alert, a zebra nearby. It started to crouch and move in the Zabra's direction. Unfortunatly none of the others followed. What a thrill seeing a wild cat in action. It's not about a blood lust, rather the excitement of a kill. Yes an animal will die, but that is the circle of life. We were excited at the prospect, but not today.
Next, a solitary Hippo out of water, apparently a rarity here. Like the elephant these guys are imposing. Just as imposing as the hippo's size is its stench. You know when they're close!
On the way to our next lodge, we came across pink flamingoes, yep they are the real deal. Beautiful in colour you can't help but smile in amazement seeing them metres away from the vehicle. All this said, all our viewing is from the Troopie, you don't get out!

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| A warm Massai welcome |
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| You want me to jump how high? |
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| Massai greeting at our lodge |
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| Best place I think we have ever stayed! |
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